Q: What is the approximate service life of the screen, LED beads, and release film?
A: Screen lifespan: 2000 hours；LED bead lifespan: 30000 hours；Release film: 30000 layers (It is recommended to print 10-20 plates before replacing the release film).
- Actual service life may vary depending on usage environment and operating habits.
Q: What is the release film size for the DJ 89PLUS?
A: Release film size is: 286×198×0.15 mm.
Q: What should I do if the printing screen is not transparent (not exposing)?
A: Please check according to the following steps:
- Check the UV lamp: First, confirm if the UV lamp lights up normally.
- Check the firmware and connections: Ensure the machine firmware is functioning properly. Check if the print screen's flexible cable is damaged or has poor contact. Also, check if the interface on the mainboard side is deformed or damaged.
- Check the screen itself: If both the UV lamp and connections are normal, the issue might be a fault in the print screen itself, which would require replacement.
Q: What should I do if the UV lamp does not light up?
A: Please troubleshoot in the following order:
- Check connections: Check if the ribbon cable between the lamp panel and the adapter board is plugged in tightly, if the port contact is good, and if the ribbon cable is damaged.
- Check the LED beads: Observe if all LED beads on the lamp panel light up normally during exposure.
- Measure voltage (Advanced): If you have a multimeter, measure whether the power supply voltage from the adapter board to the lamp panel is normal during exposure (should be around 24V). If there is no voltage output, it might be a power adapter or adapter board failure; if there is voltage but the lamp does not light, it might be a lamp panel failure.
Q: What should I do if there is abnormal noise or sound when the lead screw/Z-axis moves?
A: Abnormal noise is usually related to lubrication and mechanical structure. Please troubleshoot:
- Add lubricating oil: This is the most common reason. Please apply an appropriate amount of lubricating grease to the lead screw and guide rails.
- Check fasteners: Check if all screws around the lead screw, coupling, guide rails, and platform are loose and tighten them.
- Check the coupling: Confirm that the upper and lower screws connecting the motor and the lead screw are tightened.
- Check mechanical structure: Check if the lead screw is bent or deformed, or if the bearing assembly at the top of the lead screw is abnormal, causing friction.
- Check the motor (Advanced): Loosen the coupling, run the motor alone without load, and listen for normal sound to determine if it's a motor issue.
Q: What should I do if the touch screen is dark, black, or displays incompletely?
A: Please troubleshoot according to the following process:
- Check connections and power: Check if the screen's flexible cable is damaged or has poor contact. Confirm if the indicator light of the switching power supply is normal, or measure if the input voltage (should be 220V) and output voltage (should be 24V) of the switching power supply are stable.
- Reconnect and update: Pay attention to whether the gold wires of the flexible cable are damaged. Re-plug the flexible cable at both the display screen and mainboard ends (with the blue part facing outward) and ensure it is fully inserted. Update the mainboard firmware to the latest version.
- Cross-testing: If conditions allow, connect this display screen to another normal device for testing to determine if it's a problem with the screen, the screen cable, or the host.
- Contact support: If the above steps cannot resolve the issue, please contact after-sales service.
Q: What should I do if the platform doesn't respond during leveling, but can be manually lowered after shutdown?
A: This issue may involve circuits or mechanical transmission. Please troubleshoot:
- Check the coupling: With power on, press the cantilever to see if it can move downward. If it moves down, check if the two set screws of the coupling connecting the motor and the lead screw are tightened.
- Check for mechanical jamming: After shutting down, manually press and lift the cantilever to check if it can move smoothly. If yes, the mechanics are normal. If not, check if the lead screw or guide rails are deformed and jammed (this possibility is low).
- Check the motor: Turn on the machine and try homing or leveling, observing if the motor shaft rotates. If the motor shaft does not rotate, focus on checking if the Z-axis limit switch is working properly.
- Check the limit switch: When the limit switch is working normally, it lights up red. The light goes off when blocked. You can test triggering with a piece of paper.
Q: If a model is large and heavy, can small supports be used?
A: Large models require large supports. For models with a large volume, it is recommended to hollow them out and set drainage holes. Note: For large models, it is advised to increase the lifting height.
Q: When I complete slicing and proceed to the export step, then return to the model interface to export the STL file, does this exported STL file contain resin printing parameters and support data?
A: No, it does not. Furthermore, the supports in the exported STL file will become part of the model and cannot be modified.
Q: How to handle when the machine freezes while printing a sliced file?
A: This problem may be due to a mismatch between the slicing software version and the device's firmware version:
- Please check and provide the current firmware and slicer version numbers, and export the logs. Go to [Settings] - [System Settings] - [Update] - [OTA] and update the firmware to the latest version.
- Contact our support team, who will send the latest slicer software to resolve the issue.
Q: The MacOS version of PIOCREAT BOX has compatibility issues and cannot print normally.
A: We have optimized software performance and improved stability and smoothness. Please try using the latest versions of the software and firmware.
Q: The Windows version of PIOCREAT BOX crashes every time I try to export a file to the local computer.
A: We have optimized software performance and improved stability and smoothness. Please try using the latest versions of the software and firmware.
Q: What should I do if the printed model doesn't stick to the platform, adheres poorly, or easily detaches?
A: Please systematically troubleshoot:
- When there is cured resin in the vat:
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Re-level the build plate: This is the most critical step! Be sure to follow the standard procedure: use a single sheet of A4 paper to re-level, ensuring the four sides of the plate evenly contact the screen. Alternatively, place long paper strips at the four corners of the build plate, click leveling, and when the Z-axis descends to the leveling height, try to pull the paper strips. Good leveling is achieved when the paper strips have significant resistance and cannot be pulled out easily.
① Clean the build plate; it must not have any residual resin. The build area should not have printing residue or hard substances to avoid damaging the print screen.
② First, remove the resin vat. Loosen the four leveling screws of the build plate (do not remove the plate), and ensure the build plate is firmly tightened onto the cantilever arm.
③ Prepare an A4 paper cut to the size of the print screen and lay it flat on the print screen.
④ When the build plate descends to the print screen during leveling, all four edges of the build plate should fully contact the A4 paper on the screen.
⑤ Press down on the build plate with your left hand, and tighten the screws diagonally with your right hand (e.g., first tighten the top-left screw, then bottom-right, then top-right, finally bottom-left). After tightening, perform homing again.
⑥ After homing, press on the four edges of the build plate to observe if there is any warping or spring-back. If yes, adjust the build plate again until it is completely flush.
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Increase bottom exposure: Appropriately increase the bottom exposure time (suggest adding 5-10 seconds) and the number of bottom exposure layers (suggest adding 1-4 layers) to enhance adhesion to the build plate.
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Check and treat the build plate: If the build plate is too smooth, lightly sand it with sandpaper to increase roughness. Check if the build plate itself is flat (no central depression).
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Check resin and environment: Confirm the resin is not expired. If the ambient temperature is too low (below 5°C), you can warm the resin bottle by soaking it in warm water and ensure a suitable working environment temperature (20-25°C is ideal).
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Optimize slicing and supports: Check if the contact area between the model bottom and the build plate is sufficient. You can add a "raft" to the model or increase support density, especially for large, heavy models.
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Confirm hardware status: Ensure the vat fixing nuts are tightened and the release film is installed tightly (should produce a crisp sound when flicked).
- When there is no cured resin in the vat: Confirm hardware status: Confirm if the print screen is working properly.
Q: What should I do if the printed model has layer lines, delamination, or misalignment?
A: Layer lines and misalignment are usually related to mechanical stability and parameter settings:
- Increase exposure time: Ensure sufficient normal layer exposure time (suggest increasing by 5-15 seconds) to avoid delamination due to insufficient curing.
- Optimize supports and model: Add sufficient and reasonable supports to the model to prevent it from wobbling during printing. For hollow models, be sure to add drainage holes before slicing to avoid vacuum suction causing layer lines or cracks.
- Check hardware stability: Check if coupling screws and platform screws are loose. Ensure the lead screw and guide rails operate smoothly without jamming or abnormal noise.
- Adjust print parameters: Appropriately increase lift speed, reduce motor speed, and increase waiting (light-off) delay to allow sufficient resin flow-back time.
- Check the release film: Confirm if the vat release film is loose, worn, or too dirty. Replace it if necessary.
Q: What should I do if the printed model is damaged, incomplete, or has holes?
A:
- Check supports and model: Too few or too thin supports cannot hold the model, causing parts to detach. Model walls that are too thin (recommended >1mm) are also prone to breakage. Increase supports and check wall thickness in the slicer software.
- Check for foreign objects and screen: Clean the vat and build plate before printing to ensure no cured resin debris is blocking. Perform a "screen cleaning exposure" to check if the print screen has dead pixels or impurities.
- Check the resin: When reclaiming and using resin, it is recommended to filter it to avoid excess cured particles in the resin affecting print quality.
- Check release film and exposure: A worn release film can cause uneven light transmission, leading to under-cured areas; it needs replacement. Also, confirm during exposure testing that the light intensity is uniform and normal.
- Check sliced file: Provide the source STL file and the sliced file to confirm if the model itself has defects or if there was a slicing error.
Q: What should I do if the printed model surface has white residue or is not cleaned properly?
A: White residue is formed when unevaporated cleaning liquid (e.g., alcohol) mixes with resin and cures. Before fully curing the model, ensure it is completely cleaned with alcohol, and thoroughly dry/blow off the cleaning liquid from the model surface using an air gun or paper towel, before proceeding with UV curing. Note: It is recommended to use industrial alcohol with a concentration of 95%. When cleaning, if unclean alcohol is used, resin impurities in the alcohol may adhere to the model. It is suggested to divide cleaning into a rough wash and a fine wash, using clean alcohol for the fine wash.
Q: What should I do if importing sliced models from the USB drive fails?
A:
- Check the USB drive: Format the USB drive to FAT32 format (choose default allocation unit size). It is recommended to use a moderately sized (e.g., 16G), reliable quality USB drive.
- Check the slicing process: Confirm the correct machine model is selected during slicing and the slicing process was not interrupted. Try re-slicing or test importing with another USB drive.
- Save sliced file locally first: Save the sliced file to your computer first, then copy it to the USB drive. If the USB drive has poor contact with the computer's USB port, file corruption can easily occur during the saving process.
Q: Printed model warping.
A: Please systematically troubleshoot:
- Check printer leveling: If the printer is not leveled properly, with one side higher than the other, the higher side is prone to the workpiece falling into the vat or warping.
- The model is solid or too thick: Generally, printed model thickness should be around 1-5mm. If it exceeds this, perform hollowing to prevent the model from being too heavy, which can cause it to fall off or severely deform/warp.
- Model print time settings: Incorrect settings can also cause warping or detachment. After properly leveling the build plate, the first layer print time should be extended sufficiently to allow the model's first layer to adhere firmly to the build plate. Also, appropriately increase the number of bottom exposure layers.
- Observe if there is a gap between the model bottom and the platform as displayed in the software. If yes, please correct the model or add supports to create a tighter connection between the model and the platform.
- Check if model supports are sufficient: If support density is insufficient or supports are not strong enough to hold the model, warping can also occur.
Q: The printed result has unsatisfactory precision. How to solve it?
A: Please adjust the placement of model supports properly in the slicer software; otherwise, some supports may fall off during printing. The set print speed should not be too fast. Additionally, the resin you use, slicing parameters, model orientation, and support setup also affect print results.
Q: Model shows misalignment.
A: Before printing, it is recommended to check if the printer's coupling screws, build platform, lead screws, etc., are loose, and confirm the motor speed (should not be too fast).
¶ Automatic Material Feeding System and Heating Function :
Q: Does the DJ 89PLUS have chamber heating?
A: The machine is equipped with an active heating module. It transfers heat into the chamber, forming a cycle of hot air within the chamber.
Q: What should I do if the computer cannot find the printer during LAN printing?
A:
- Confirm network and software: Ensure both the printer and the computer are connected to the same Wi-Fi network on the 2.4GHz band. Update the slicer software on the computer to the latest version.
- Check printer network connection: On the printer's touch screen, go to the information interface to see if it has successfully obtained an IP address.
- Check computer firewall (Windows): In the computer's firewall settings, ensure that domain network access for the slicer software is allowed.
- Network troubleshooting: Use a mobile phone hotspot to connect both the printer and the computer, and check if they can connect normally.